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As a bike experten could you give me a advise?
A road bike is not suitable for my city rough roads, so I’m thinking about a cyclocross bike.
As the most affordable are the CAnnondale CAADX TIagra and the Merida cyclo cross 500( both about at the same price in POrtugal), knowing the 500 as a more advanced gear system, overall which you think is better? Or there is even a better bike for a budget around 1000 to 1400€?
Great bike channel by the way!
Hi, I’m looking forward to change my 29’r for a Merida cross 500 2016 model.
What about that model compared to the 2015 model. Any significant changes?
Only question marks for myself are the brakes (feel & power) compared my SLX disks on the 29’r. Also the brakelevers on top of the handlebars do look a bit odd.
Hi Cannondany…great review of the Merida Cyclocross 500…
I was just interested to know if you could fit a front fender/mudgaurd to the carbon fork
I know the fork has holes down towards the thru axle but can’t see any at the top of the fork…
I guess if you take the front wheel off is there a treaded hole up the centre of the fork? Many Thanx
Great review! Have a little question though. Looks like we only got through axle in the front wheel, but the rear wheel is using a standard quick release right? Is there any potential problems like having to adjust the rear brake every time you install the rear wheel?Why we don’t get through axle in the rear?
Hi, how’s your cyclocross competition…..
What’s with the angle? Is it wide?
Has anyone bad experiences with the cabling getting filled with mud and not working anymore (especially for the rear derailleur)? I am considering the Merida 700 CX 2016.
great review! but what about the tire clearance, especially in lower chain stays, can the bike handle wide tires, like wtb nano? thx!
Hi, I have had my Merida cyclocross 500 about a year. I picked this model because it has mud guard mounting holes, disc brakes, and also thru axle. And I liked also the the drivetrain with 46/36 chainring. It has good gear ratios for me. I wanted a bike with a lot of easy gears, but still have also some faster gear for downhill on tarmac.
You liked the way how cables enter the frame from the shifters, but I thought it’s weird and could be better. After a while, the brake cable started to squeak in that hole where it enters the frame when turning the handlebar. So it might chew the cable after all? I applied some Teflon grease to there.. Maybe some silicon based grease would have been better? But I think the type of Teflon I used isn’t also too aggressive for plastic and such things. At least that’s what it said in tube. Grease stoped the annoying sound.
Year ago when I bought the bike, they were pretty expensive in local store, since it was new model. So I instead bought it online from Germany. I got it something 180€ cheaper from there. Even though, I had been warned by local bike shop that I might not get any bike at all, if buying online, and how the bikes sold online are all bent and bad and whatever.. Well the bike I got really had it’s rear wheel undished by one millimeter to right, because the rear triangle was bent 1 mm to left. And later I discovered that also the front end also isn’t straight.. Fork was holding the opposite direction.. to right. Maybe 4 to 6 mm..
Well I don’t think it got damaged by it’s long journey from Germany to Estonia. Also I don’t believe that I would have got better bike from local dealers.. I suspect it’s not also some quality issue or accident in producing…
Rather I believe that the bikes are often bent this way for the same reason, why they decided to leave that shifter cable you mentioned in video opened for the dirt and why the rear dropouts had those weird openings there. Of course, I might be wrong and paranoid. And a bad person. But, but well.. somehow I have got such impression.
Yeah that one mm for rear triangle is acceptable. Unfortunate, but acceptable. But the fork has about 5mm difference by my measuring that actually took a lot of effort for me. Since I wanted to get smaller measure. It might be actually a whole cm too. But..
Even that 5mm might not cause much problem, but I still don’t like that. I just don’t like such things. For me this bike isn’t that cheap. If they make unstraight bikes. They should warn, that they might be a bit so or so.
The rim tapes used on my bike, were also very irritatingly stubborn, when changing tires. They don’t want to stay put, moving to left and right under to bead, making the installation of tire difficult.. The tire was wobbling and did not get straight even after some ridding. And I think it was because rimtape wasn’t in center properly. Didn’t they have some wider rimtapes to use? I clued them to rim. And then used some liguid soap to get the tire properly beaded. And now it’s almost straight on rim.
But it’s good bike. I think.. I like it. Except some fault.. But Much better than my old 8 speed cross bike was.. because that one was already 7 years old. And 3 times cheaper.
Also I would have liked shorter crank arms for the 52 size frame. It came with 72.5 cranks.. I think it was 72.5… Some other brands had shorter crank arms fitted on similar sized cx bikes. I think shorter ones would work for me better.. also would leave more clearance for front wheel. And maybe the handlebar could be narrower too? But I’m not sure. Maybe it’s normal for a cx bike. But I suspect that these meridas have same length of crank arms and with of handlebars for all sizes.. maybe stem length is only different. ^_^
Hi hello, I like to buy merida cyclocross 300 2016 model. Can u tell me little more about the 300 model.